An Anglo-Hungarian friend of mine, let's call him Jancsi, recently sent me this email about his experience of having his Brit friend come to stay here in Budapest. I have to admit, I'm so out of the tourist swim that I too was shocked by the numbers. (UPDATED)
The Budapest Sikló: Not many workers on board these days. (Photo BKK Website)
“Kester
“I did the sums after Mike left and I nearly fell of my chair when I realised how much I'd spent in 2 days. Budapest is a beautiful city and our friends and family might be understandably keen to visit us. When they do it's hard to say no to spending time with them, helping to guide them around the city and participating in the same things they want to do.
“The underlying issue is that tourist expenses are far out of kilter with the general Hungarian price level. I was stunned to see that the Sikló [the funicular railway from Clark Ádám tér to the Castle] is now HUF 5,000 (EUR 12.5) for a ticket,"
Well, yes, but it is a return ticket, Jancsi :)
"I recall riding it as a child for the cost of an ordinary ticket on public transport and considering it's a 60 second ride, this is essentially what it's worth, perhaps 1000 Ft. if we add a premium for the novelty value.
“Even Mike blanched at the idea of spending over a tenner [in pounds sterling] to ride to the top of a hill we could easily walk up via the scenic Castle Garden Bazaar, or take bus 16 that is included in the cost of a travel pass.
"Yet there are considerable queues at the lower station which I find hard to fathom. Either people aren't converting the cost into their home currency, or they don't care.
“Restaurant bills are hideous, even the simple pizzeria we visited on the second evening generated a sizeable bill. Mike wanted to have a classic kaffeehaus experience and because of its proximity to the Vigado piers I settled on Gerbeaud. Fortunately, Mike offered to pay even before we walked in the door, I knew it would be expensive but nothing prepared me for quite how expensive it is in reality.
“Two slices of cake, a coffee and a tea came to over HUF 15,000 (EUF 38) with the mandatory 16.5% service charge. I think one can walk into any luxury hotel in London and have a slice of patisserie and a coffee for the same price or less. You can't charge more than £10 for a slice of cake in London (aside from the dessert menu of a smart restaurant) and anything over £8 for a coffee, however fancy, will result in a sharp intake of breath.”
Mentioning this to a French friend, I got the reply:
“Yes, Budapest is more expensive than Paris. In most Parisian tea-rooms ( and nice ones), you would pay half that price.”
But back to Jancsi's woes.
“Going forward I'm not sure how one reconciles the need to escort our visitors (assuming one is not exclusively availing oneself of the other's generosity) while keeping expenditure at affordable levels!
“If someone else asked to come and visit I'd be welcoming in offering them a place to stay and also willing to make them breakfast and dinner at home, but I'd explain I can't visit the city with them as the costs are too high! That in turn will lead to disappointment and sadness on the part of the visitor who will feel blackmailed into covering expenses so that the host isn't left out, which isn't a hospitable thing to do.
“I wouldn't want to give the impression that they're not welcome to stay, only that the cost of doing tourist things is excessive for my wallet. The easiest get out clause is to say that one is working, but then you're on the hook to actually appear busy which might entail leaving home. It's easier to do in your line of work but for those that don't work from home on a computer it's harder to generate the impression one is busy earning a living!
I'm not sure what the answer to all this is. Suggestions on a postcard.”
My suspicion on hearing all this was that the Funicular had been hived off from BKK and 'sold' to an 'entrepreneur' with awfully good political connections. It was therefore somewhat consoling to find all the details of the system up there on the Budapest Transport Centre website, who are, presumably, still the owners.
Since the BKK and the city are invariably strapped for cash, Jancsi can at least take heart that any monies splashed out on this 190 metre return trip are at least going to a good cause.
Of course, the huge irony of all this is that the Sikló was originally built to take workers to and from the Castle District at an affordable price. Well, I suppose a minister or state secretary working in the Castle might not wince at paying HUF 5,000 for the trip, but they have chauffeur-driven cars of course, so are hardly in any need.
Having commented on this, Jancsi wrote back.
“Yes, it's all madness. Not only are these prices far in excess of what the typical Hungarian wallet can cope with, they're expensive even for western tourists.
“On a positive note I have to say that service everywhere we ended up was unfailingly polite, efficient and professional. It strikes me that hospitality jobs in Budapest (at least those at establishments aimed at tourist traffic) are well paid with offer the opportunity to earn plentiful tips, therefore there's no shortage of quality recruits, even in a labour market with a general shortage. That of course contrasts starkly with 'locals' places who can only recruit the dregs and those that don't speak a word of any foreign language, leading to gruff interactions with dour staff.
“Even those working in ticket offices were generally friendly and spoke passable English. Everyone at the Children's Railway was cheery, from the chap that sold us tickets (the kids had apparently clocked off as it was their bath and bedtime by the time we arrived for the last service of the day back to Huvosvolgy) to the station masters saluting the train with a broad smile. Hats off to all the friendly people we came into contact with as I know it takes a big effort to smile in Hungary these days.
“Unlike in days gone by I sense a general desire to create a positive impression of Hungary for visitors, especially amongst the younger employees. The very attractive young ladies working on the Legenda vessel were efficient, smiling and spoke all manner of foreign languages with fluency. I don't know where they source them but they're a credit to the operation. I don't doubt they're well compensated in order to find good staff, they more than earn it back with their ticket prices!”
Comments welcome!
This comment arrived from Michael Leech, London
Who, like me, doesn't know how to add a comment to a post. (It keeps telling me my password is wrong, even after I've updated it!) So I've added this to the main post.
Date: Fri, 11 Oct 2024 at 17:52
Subject: The cost of hosting a guest: it can be traumatic (quite expensive)….
but very rewarding in many ways.
So my “Answers on a Postcard”
Living in London means that we get our friends from England and our friends
from Europe, mainly Slovenia, visiting us, as we are an ideal (and free base) to see
our wonderful city (rarely country sadly). Visitors have been arriving over many years, first family and then both son and daughters uni chums and flat mates. It’s become a regular feature and culminated in three 19 year old Slovenia ‘kids’ staying last month and only a day after we returned from 6 weeks in Slovenia.
My wife Gill, I guess knew their visit was for 10 nights but I thought it was a long weekend before they went to Paris, staying at one of the kids mums friends.
These three kids, one the son of a wonderful old au pair of ours , his girlfriend and her best girl friend. They spoke wonderful English, turned some phrases and words I wish our kids used and were a delight to host.
Their parents said, “they have worked all summer, have money and will be out all day, look after themselves and be no bother” !
They had a full itinerary with student desires, plus the odd trip to Oxford, Brighton and the theatre. They did just that but when questioned on what they were living on per day, we realised not everything was possible …….
Breakfast was provided, along with one Full English ( they loved it) . They got a Tesco clubcard before travelling and had lived on Meal Deals or premium meal deals, which they really enjoyed . Step counts were in the 20Ks each day. They were switched on, streetwise(?) and savvy !
As pensioners, extremely equity rich but cash poor and now hit with no fuel allowance, we to need to look after the pennies.
They came back in the evening one night, having eaten their meal deal but as we were enjoying a hot vegetable stew with dumplings, we offered them some. Bowls emptied and now fans of suet dumplings they retired to bed.
We felt the need to feed them some evenings and enjoyed hearing of their experiences, which were all positive.
We live close to an area with a mile of Indian restaurants - they aren’t really, they are Bangladesh, Pakistani, Sri Lankan, Indian etc etc . They had never had ‘Indian food’ , ideal I thought, so off we went one evening . The cheap Formica tabled favourite of ours was full, as most are even on a Wednesday but we got in a very blingy but not too expensive place opposite.
We were given a marble table with a river running through it and at the end a colour changing volcano spewing steam from it. Utter bonkers but two fell in love with the spice and one sadly ate plain rice ! We left with bits of rice in the river
On having previously been questioned about their daily budget we realised the theatre was a pipe dream but as it was ‘Kids Week’ we got some cheap in the gods tickets to Moulin Rouge and to also get them in the mood for Paris the next day, a table at the wonderful Wolsey owned art deco French restaurant opposite the theatre, Zedel Brasserie .
Three courses to fill them up in a sophisticated London restaurant at £19.95 a head.
It’s OK food at that money !
These were truly great, interesting young adults and most appreciative .
Yes it is expensive to host but it is so worthwhile and rewarding. It makes scrimping on
other things worth it to bring such happiness to others.
We also got rewarded by hearing Paris was extremely dirty and we were ‘simply the best ‘. My parents certainly taught me that giving is more rewarding than receiving .
At our age we now want to leave the city, cash in on the equity before Labour add a Mansion Tax on London property and move to the sea ! We do hope to get the odd visitor .... !
Who’s next to visit before we leave we wonder, Kester ?
Love to all you followers, feel free to post on.
Sent from my iPad